Changing from Synthetic oil to Regular
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Miramar
Posts: 312
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Changing from Synthetic oil to Regular
Well i just bought my S and the previous owner said that all his oil changes were with synthetic oil. In my other 3 Hondas that i currently own i use only Genuine Honda oil straight from the dealer because im anal like that. With the S2000 i know it runs a little hotter and with the synthetic the transition into VTEC is said to be smoother. Can someone lay this to rest? Is there a special process involved if i decided (which im leaning towards) to change back to regular oil. If and when i change will i notice any problems? Do you think i should just stay with the synthetic?
note: i did a search and i couldnt find anyhthing good or i just went blind after the 12+ pages.
note: i did a search and i couldnt find anyhthing good or i just went blind after the 12+ pages.
#2
I've had nothing but good review from dealership mechanic when I told him that I use Mobile 1 SuperSynth 10w-30
He recommended Castrol or Mobile. Eitherway, I think S2000 is great candidate for Synthetic oil.
I have been using Mobile on my 3 previous vehicles and now on my S2000. I have nothing bad to say about them
SAM's Club sells box of 6 for $24.
He recommended Castrol or Mobile. Eitherway, I think S2000 is great candidate for Synthetic oil.
I have been using Mobile on my 3 previous vehicles and now on my S2000. I have nothing bad to say about them
SAM's Club sells box of 6 for $24.
#3
Stick with quality synthetics.
But if you really is that anal, it's not a big deal to switch from mineral to synthetic, but some peple are anal and think that is bad for the engine downgrading the kind of oil...
But if you really is that anal, it's not a big deal to switch from mineral to synthetic, but some peple are anal and think that is bad for the engine downgrading the kind of oil...
#5
Registered User
Pennsylvania crude used to mean something, as oil from that region had particularly good mineral content. Now, it is a meaningless term, as oils are refined from raw stocks from all over the place.
Yes, you can go back to mineral oil, and there are many fine ones.
This may help:
http://forums.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.p...highlight=10w30
P.S. Use the Search function - there is a wealth of info on common questions from the many knowledgeable posters on this Forum.
Yes, you can go back to mineral oil, and there are many fine ones.
This may help:
http://forums.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.p...highlight=10w30
P.S. Use the Search function - there is a wealth of info on common questions from the many knowledgeable posters on this Forum.
#6
Registered User
Originally posted by Road Rage
there is a wealth of info on common questions from the many knowledgeable posters on this Forum.
there is a wealth of info on common questions from the many knowledgeable posters on this Forum.
Listen to Road Rage. Ignore my comment. I was commenting more on your linguistics than on your lubrication.
Trending Topics
#8
I've done it, at least from a fully synthetic formula to a partsyn formula, and my oil consumption halved. The car has 88.000km on it.
No adverse effects, no other positive effects, no changes in fuel consumption or performance, a bit heavier wallet.
///Robin
No adverse effects, no other positive effects, no changes in fuel consumption or performance, a bit heavier wallet.
///Robin
#10
Registered User
Motorcraft's new formula 10w30 is outstanding. If it were a castrol product, it would be called synthetic, as it is made from Group III basestocks, hydrocracked. And it sells for less than $2/quart!!!! Amsoil's XL-7500 is also a GIII, and costs $4.35/quart!
If I were going to a mineral-based 10w30, that is what i would use!
Havoline (which is made by Chevron now) is also an excellent mineral oil, with very solid performance.
I would prefer both of these over Castrol GTX.
************************************************** **************
By the way, remember when i posted about esters being good pecause they protect at start-up, and never drain into the pan completely? Castrol has a niche proiduct in the US now, called "Start up". Maybe they were listening to me when i griped that they save all the good stuff for Europe?
If I were going to a mineral-based 10w30, that is what i would use!
Havoline (which is made by Chevron now) is also an excellent mineral oil, with very solid performance.
I would prefer both of these over Castrol GTX.
************************************************** **************
By the way, remember when i posted about esters being good pecause they protect at start-up, and never drain into the pan completely? Castrol has a niche proiduct in the US now, called "Start up". Maybe they were listening to me when i griped that they save all the good stuff for Europe?